Weekend Stories
I enjoy going exploring on weekends (mostly). Here is a collection of stories and photos I gather along the way. All posts are CC BY-NC-SA licensed unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share, remix, and adapt the content as long as you give appropriate credit and distribute your contributions under the same license.
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Cologne, the ‘Hillige Stadt’
Cologne’s historical role as a religious hub in central Europe and the Holy Roman Empire is epitomized by its twelve Romanesque churches, each a witnessing the city’s spiritual, architectural, and cultural legacy over the centuries. Situated north of the Alps, Cologne emerged as a key center of Christianity, home to a network of churches that fostered a spiritual life for its medieval inhabitants and served as significant pilgrimage sites. The city’s status as the ‘Hillige Stadt’ or ‘Holy City’ was not merely due to the grandeur of its churches but also tied to its vast collection of sacred relics, which placed it on par with other major pilgrimage centers like Rome and Jerusalem. This profound religious influence continues to shape Cologne’s identity today, albeit in ways that transcend the strictly Catholic framework of the past.
Rediscovering Cologne’s early Christian baptistery
The rediscovery of Cologne’s early Christian baptistery in 1866 unearthed one of the oldest and most significant Christian relics north of the Alps. This ancient site, located near the Cologne Cathedral, dates back to the 6th century and played a crucial role in the city’s early Christian community. The octagonal baptismal basin (Piscina), central to the baptistery’s design, offers a rare glimpse into the architectural and liturgical practices of early Christianity in the Rhineland. Today, the site has been preserved and sensitively modernized, showcasing both the spiritual and historical significance of early Christian architecture. Fortunately, I was lucky to visit the site during the Day of the Open Monument in 2024. Here are some impressions together with a brief overview of the history of the baptistery, from what I have been able to find out so far.
St. Kolumba in Cologne: A beacon against the war and a symbol of resilience and resurrection
St. Kolumba, one of Cologne’s historic churches, is a symbol of both the city’s rich medieval heritage and its capacity to rise from the ashes of destruction. The church was among the many historical sites severely damaged during World War II. Today, while much of the original structure no longer stands, the legacy of St. Kolumba endures, most notably through the poignant Madonna in den Trümmern (Madonna of the Ruins) and the modern Kolumba Museum that integrates its ruins. Here we focus on the history of St. Kolumba, from its founding to its destruction and transformation. In a later article, we will explore the 2007 opened Kolumba Museum.
St. Maria in Lyskirchen: A treasure of medieval frescoes in Cologne
St. Maria in Lyskirchen is the smallest of Cologne’s twelve Romanesque churches but holds great historical and artistic significance. It is situated in the southern part of the city’s Altstadt district, right at the Rhine river bank. Built between 1198 and 1225, the church’s structure is that of a three-aisled basilica, closely modeled after St. Kunibert, one of Cologne’s larger Romanesque churches. What distinguishes St. Maria in Lyskirchen from the other Romanesque churches is the well-preserved medieval frescoes from the 13th century and the reverence of the Schiffermadonna (Sailor’s Madonna). The name ‘Lyskirchen’ likely originates from a nobleman named Lysolvus or Lisolfus, who founded the original church as a private chapel. Today, both the church and its adjacent buildings, including the sacristy and sexton’s house, are listed as protected monuments. In October 2024, I was able to visit the church. Here is a summary of my impressions and what I could find out about its historical background so far.
St. Kunibert: A symbol of Romanesque grandeur
St. Kunibert is one of the twelve Romanesque basilicas in Cologne, located near the Rhine in the northern part of the city’s old town. Named after Kunibert, the 7th-century bishop of Cologne, this church is an iconic example of the city’s religious heritage, representing centuries of architectural, cultural, and spiritual significance. Apart from that, the church holds numerous religious artifacts and relics, which are of historical and religious significance. Last month, I was able to visit the church. Here is a summary of my impressions and its historical background.
St. Georg: Cologne’s ‘Ravenna on the Rhine’
St. Georg in Cologne is one of the city’s twelve Romanesque churches, holding historical, architectural, and religious significance. Its construction began in 1059, and it was consecrated in 1067. The church stands on the site of a Roman guard post that controlled traffic between Cologne and Bonn during Roman times. This location links St. Georg with the deep historical roots of the city, from its Roman past through to its development during the Middle Ages. In October this year I had the chance to visit the church and learn more about its history and architectural features. Here is a summary of what I’ve learned so far.
Baroque splendor as a tool of the Counter-Reformation: St. Mariä Himmelfahrt in Cologne
Located near the Cologne Cathedral, the Catholic parish church of St. Mariä Himmelfahrt stands as one of Cologne’s largest churches, second only to the Cathedral itself. Built during the early 17th century, it remains one of the few surviving Baroque architectural monuments in the city. Despite the city’s Gothic-dominated skyline, this Jesuit-designed church offers a remarkable insight into the Baroque era’s religious and architectural innovations – and it illustrates the Catholic Church’s efforts to reaffirm its power through monumental and elaborate religious structures. In this post, we briefly to explore the history, architecture, and artistic elements of this church, highlighting its significance in Cologne’s religious and cultural landscape.
Trinitatiskirche: Historical Protestant church in the heart of Catholic Cologne
The Trinitatiskirche, located in the southern part of Cologne’s Old Town near the Heumarkt, is the oldest Protestant church built on the left bank of the Rhine in Cologne. As a significant landmark for the city’s Protestant community, it represents both religious history and modern cultural engagement. Today, the church serves not only as a venue for special religious services but also as a space for concerts, events, and art exhibitions. Additionally, it is a regular place of worship for the city’s deaf evangelical community. Earlier this year, I had the chance to visit the church. In this post, I’d like to summarize its historical background as far as I could find out.
Antoniterkirche in Cologne: Transformation of a medieval church throughout history
The Antoniterkirche is one of the key Protestant churches in Cologne, standing out as a unique Gothic structure amidst the city’s predominantly Catholic heritage. Located on Schildergasse, a bustling shopping street, the Antoniterkirche provides a quiet retreat for visitors, combining historical architecture with modern spiritual significance. Originally built by the Catholic Antonite Order in the 14th century, the church has undergone several transformations, most notably during the Reformation and the aftermath of World War II, reflecting Cologne’s dynamic religious and cultural history.
Basilica of the Holy Apostles in Cologne
St. Aposteln is one of Cologne’s twelve major Romanesque churches, embodying the city’s rich medieval heritage and religious devotion. Located at Neumarkt, one of Cologne’s busiest squares, the church stands as an architectural and spiritual landmark. Known for its distinctive Three-Apsed Choir (Trikonchos) and Romanesque westwork, St. Aposteln has played a central role in both liturgical and civic life throughout its long history. Despite suffering severe damage during World War II, the church has been meticulously restored and continues to serve as an active parish. Today, St. Aposteln symbolizes both Cologne’s long backtracking history and its ongoing commitment to preserving its legacy in a modern urban setting.