Weekend Stories
I enjoy going exploring on weekends (mostly). Here is a collection of stories and photos I gather along the way. All posts are CC BY-NC-SA licensed unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share, remix, and adapt the content as long as you give appropriate credit and distribute your contributions under the same license.
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Autobahnkirche Medenbach
While on a road trip to Mainz, I had an unexpected encounter at a highway rest stop: the Autobahnkirche Medenbach. Tucked away in an area typically associated with traffic and noise, this minimalist chapel was a strong contrast to its surroundings. The experience of stepping inside the chapel’s area was like shortly entering another world – one of serenity, light and shadows. In an environment dominated by the rush of cars and the hum of the autobahn, this small structure provides a quiet refuge, offering a unique opportunity for reflection and rest. Here is a closer look at this small chapel and what I could find out about its history and design so-far.
Kolumba Museum: Peter Zumthor’s vision of light, space, and history
The Kolumba Museum in Cologne stands as a unique fusion of history, art, and architecture, offering visitors an extraordinary sensory experience. Designed by the renowned Swiss architect Peter Zumthor and completed in 2007, the museum is a striking example of how contemporary architecture can harmoniously blend with the past. Situated on the site of the former St. Kolumba church, which was heavily damaged during World War II, the museum masterfully incorporates the medieval ruins, the post-war chapel Madonna in den Trümmern, and modern spaces into a cohesive and contemplative whole. This architectural gem creates a dialogue between light, shadow, space, and the centuries of art and history housed within its walls.
Reassessing Pius XII: New insights into the Catholic Church’s role during the Holocaust and the Ratlines
Pope Pius XII’s pontificate during World War II remains one of the most debated periods in the history of the Catholic Church. While his defenders argue that his actions were guided by a commitment to neutrality and the protection of Catholics, critics contend that his decisions reflected moral compromises that undermined the Church’s credibility. New insights, such as those presented in the ARTE documentary The Pope and the Holocaust, shed additional light on Pope Pius XII’s role during this tumultuous period. These revelations warrant a reassessment of his actions, especially concerning the Holocaust and the post-war Ratlines.
Schloss Brühl: A symbol of clerical excess and power
Schloss Augustusburg (Augustusburg Palace) in Brühl, near Cologne, is one of Germany’s most notable examples of Rococo architecture and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its history is intricately linked to the powerful Electors and Archbishops of Cologne, particularly Clemens August of Bavaria, who commissioned its construction in the early 18th century. Born into a family of immense wealth and influence, Clemens August was not only a high-ranking member of the Catholic Church but also a ruler with vast temporal power. His reign was marked by extravagant displays of wealth, both in his personal lifestyle and in the construction of grand architectural projects like Schloss Augustusburg.
The Battle of Worringen: A clash of power, politics, and the church in medieval Cologne
The Battle of Worringen (Schlacht von Worringen), fought on June 5, 1288, was one of the largest and most significant battles of the medieval period in the Holy Roman Empire. It involved several important players: the Archbishop of Cologne, the Duke of Brabant, and various other nobles and city forces. The conflict centered on territorial disputes, power dynamics within the empire, and the growing desire for independence by urban centers such as Cologne. The story of the Battle of Worringen symptomatically demonstrates the hubris and arrogance of a church that became entangled in worldly power play and militarism, disregarding the teachings of its proclaimed founder, Jesus. The Archbishop of Cologne, Siegfried von Westerburg, who acted as both a spiritual and secular prince, embodies this discrepancy between ecclesiastical authority and political ambition. His involvement in the battle illustrates how church leaders of the time were often involved in worldly power struggles instead of concentrating on their (self-assigned) spiritual leadership roles.
Cologne’s Historical City Hall
The Historical City Hall (Historisches Rathaus) in Cologne stands as one of the city’s most iconic monuments, reflecting its rich political and economic history. The current city hall complex is a blend of various architectural styles from different periods, illustrating Cologne’s transformation over centuries, from a prominent medieval trading hub in the Hanseatic League to a powerful free city of the Holy Roman Empire. Some weeks ago, I was lucky to visit the city hall during the Day of the Open Monument in 2024. Here are some few impressions and a brief overview of the history of the city hall.
Cologne, the ‘Hillige Stadt’
Cologne’s historical role as a religious hub in central Europe and the Holy Roman Empire is epitomized by its twelve Romanesque churches, each a witnessing the city’s spiritual, architectural, and cultural legacy over the centuries. Situated north of the Alps, Cologne emerged as a key center of Christianity, home to a network of churches that fostered a spiritual life for its medieval inhabitants and served as significant pilgrimage sites. The city’s status as the ‘Hillige Stadt’ or ‘Holy City’ was not merely due to the grandeur of its churches but also tied to its vast collection of sacred relics, which placed it on par with other major pilgrimage centers like Rome and Jerusalem. This profound religious influence continues to shape Cologne’s identity today, albeit in ways that transcend the strictly Catholic framework of the past.
Rediscovering Cologne’s early Christian baptistery
The rediscovery of Cologne’s early Christian baptistery in 1866 unearthed one of the oldest and most significant Christian relics north of the Alps. This ancient site, located near the Cologne Cathedral, dates back to the 6th century and played a crucial role in the city’s early Christian community. The octagonal baptismal basin (Piscina), central to the baptistery’s design, offers a rare glimpse into the architectural and liturgical practices of early Christianity in the Rhineland. Today, the site has been preserved and sensitively modernized, showcasing both the spiritual and historical significance of early Christian architecture. Fortunately, I was lucky to visit the site during the Day of the Open Monument in 2024. Here are some impressions together with a brief overview of the history of the baptistery, from what I have been able to find out so far.
St. Kolumba in Cologne: A beacon against the war and a symbol of resilience and resurrection
St. Kolumba, one of Cologne’s historic churches, is a symbol of both the city’s rich medieval heritage and its capacity to rise from the ashes of destruction. The church was among the many historical sites severely damaged during World War II. Today, while much of the original structure no longer stands, the legacy of St. Kolumba endures, most notably through the poignant Madonna in den Trümmern (Madonna of the Ruins) and the modern Kolumba Museum that integrates its ruins. Here we focus on the history of St. Kolumba, from its founding to its destruction and transformation. In a later article, we will explore the 2007 opened Kolumba Museum.
St. Maria in Lyskirchen: A treasure of medieval frescoes in Cologne
St. Maria in Lyskirchen is the smallest of Cologne’s twelve Romanesque churches but holds great historical and artistic significance. It is situated in the southern part of the city’s Altstadt district, right at the Rhine river bank. Built between 1198 and 1225, the church’s structure is that of a three-aisled basilica, closely modeled after St. Kunibert, one of Cologne’s larger Romanesque churches. What distinguishes St. Maria in Lyskirchen from the other Romanesque churches is the well-preserved medieval frescoes from the 13th century and the reverence of the Schiffermadonna (Sailor’s Madonna). The name ‘Lyskirchen’ likely originates from a nobleman named Lysolvus or Lisolfus, who founded the original church as a private chapel. Today, both the church and its adjacent buildings, including the sacristy and sexton’s house, are listed as protected monuments. In October 2024, I was able to visit the church. Here is a summary of my impressions and what I could find out about its historical background so far.